As a child, I had several occasions to eagerly listen to the
narrations of history, geography, climate and biota about Kumbalam by Xavier
Master Chembalamsseril (1904-83,) who
was a popular English and History teacher of Sacred Heart High School at
Thevara. He was handsome and used to dress elegantly and always pleasant with a
cute smile on his face. He was one of the first cousins of my ‘Appachan,’ my father, and was respected
and revered. He used to tell me that nature is the manifestation of the love of
the Creator. He told me, “Two centuries back, Kumbalam was one of the deltas
popping out in the Vembanad ‘Kayal,’
Lake, and it was formed by sudden accretion of inundated soil and loam which
eroded from the Sahyadri Mountains and hills created by heavy floods through
the Rivers of Achenkovil, Pampa, Manimala, Meenachil, Muvattupuzha on the South
and Periyar on the North. It was an area with a spectacular mangrove region,
rich in varied flora and luxuriance.”
The flora and
fauna is the most striking feature of the land surface. The delta region like
Kumbalam Village has a unique flora and fauna that vary widely from the
Sahyadri Mountains, hills and valleys. The varied fauna and flora of a region
depends on climatic factors like quantity of rainfall; tropical temperature along with humidity in the air, precipitation
and the nature of the soil; variation
in sunlight due to variations in latitude, height above sea level, season and
duration of the day in any specific region; and soil conditions. I have made earnest efforts to portray my nostalgic
memories and experiences with the ecosystem of
my village.
All the flora and fauna are
collectively known as Biota. All living things in an
ecosystem are interdependent for their sustenance, growth and development. The existence of one species may depend on the health of
another. The trees and the vegetation tiers in the matrix help produce
life sustaining oxygen and prevent soil erosion, conserve water and purify air.
Barks of trees, leaves, flowers, seeds, grains, tubers and roots of varied
flora provided food and medicine for the fauna on earth. Every species of flora and fauna has a role to play in the
ecosystem; hence conservation is essential.
A lot of varieties of flora having aerial roots like - ‘Kandal’, (Rhizophora candel) and Red ‘Kandal’ of family Rhixoph were spotted
on the shores of Vembanad ‘Kayal’. These
dense ‘Kandal’ trees could break the
wind and withstand the turbulence of the sea or the backwater. Its roots helped
to prevent soil erosion. The other common trees seen on the shores were ‘Ungu or Puzhakanjiram,’ (Pongamia Pinnata;) ‘Kutti-kandal’ (Bruguiera
cylindrica;) ‘Kozhi-mutta-nari’ (Premna serratifolia;) ‘Othalam’ (Cerbera manghas;) ‘Attupunna’
(Calophyllum inophyllum) and ‘Nenmeni-vaka’ (Canden atensis.) The culture of constructing granite embankments
along the coastline necessitated the cutting and removal of these trees in
large numbers.
There
were marshes in these islands. Sea Holly or ‘Muthala Mullu,’ (Acanthus illicifolius,) is the most common variety of plants
that grow on the marshes. They have thorny trunks and leaves. But the marshes
which were situated adjoining to Bapu Haji’s and Makkar Haji’s oil mill and
other business places were used as pits for wetting the coconut husks locally
known as ‘Chakirikuzhi’,.
‘Kaitha Kadu’, (Pandamus odoratissimus,) was noted on the bunds or ‘Chiras,’ and ‘Choonda’ Palms,
Wild Mango trees, Bamboo forests, a variety of other shrubs, herbs and grasses
on drained flat land or ‘Tharas.’ There were different
varieties of flora in the canals, ponds and paddy fields. The flowers of the Water-Lilly (Ambal,) and the Lotus (Cheru-Chittamara,) were eye catching.
There are a variety of algae or Payal, noticed on this Island. The ‘Urppai’ (Pontederia vaginalia,)
spotted on tanks; the ‘Yenna-payal’
(Rotala verticellaris), the ‘Kalpayil’
(Lichen rotand) and the ‘Mullan-Payal’
Piaguicola or Urticularia are noted in fresh water ponds, canals and
paddy-fields. The ‘Vazhukka-Payal’ Vallisneria spiralis, could be observed
on open floors and walls. The ‘Katapa Payal’ or water hyacinth used to spread on stagnant water and
its blue flowers at a vast stretch of water were alluring. The African Payal is an exotic species found in
Kuttanad region which is a menace during rainy season to the fishermen casting
fishing nets in Vembanad Backwaters and it is still continuing.
Ferns are another category of plants seen on moist walls.
They are flowerless plants of the Order Filicopsida, having feathery fronds.
Spores could be seen beneath the fronds which disbursed by winds. There are a
few attractive varieties like Dryopteris filix-mas, which are planted in pots
in our garden too.
I have noticed that the drained flat lands or ‘Thara,’ and lots of bunds ‘Varamba,’ within paddy fields, were
extensively cultivated with major crops like Coconut and Areca, and these made
the country-side lush green. The wood of a lot of other trees like ‘Poovarasu’ (Persia tree or umbrella
tree,) Jack tree, Ayini, Ponga, Mahogani, Teak (a rare and strong
timber) and other valuable trees, were used for the construction of buildings
and furniture making. ‘Arani’ tree, (Premna spin,) trunk is used as fishing stakes. Lots of soft
wood varieties like – Pine or ‘Marotti,’
Batham, ‘Elanji’, (Mimusops Elenji,)
‘Kanjiram’ (Strycknine tree,)
‘Njaval’ (Jamun Tree,) ‘Othalam,’
‘Udi,’ ‘Odina pinnata’ could also be spotted. ‘Udi’ used to be planted near pagodas and churches to hoist the
flags for their festivals. Now that is replaced by steel poles plaited with
brass, silver or gold. A few varieties of natural mango trees are also seen.
There were instances when people of this Island committed suicide by eating the
kernel of ‘Othalam’ seed, which is
poisonous. Fruit trees like Jack-fruit
tree, Mango tree, ‘Anjili’ or ‘Ayini,’ ‘Aerides retusa,’ Bread-fruit tree, Gooseberry or ‘Nelli,’ Hogplum or ‘Ambazham’; shrub fruit trees like Guava,
Rose Apple, CustardApple (Seethafal,)
Spiny Custard or Mullu-Aatha,
Mulberry, Pappaya, Lemon, Lime, Bumbloose
and other Citrus varieties; Spices like Pepper (Black Gold,) Turmeric,
Ginger, and Arrow root; Banana, Pineapple; Big and small Yam and vegetables are
also commonly spotted here. It has also vast stretches of Ayurvedic medicinal
herbs. Asparagus or ‘Satavari,’ Asparagus racemosus, is a climber, the tube roots of which are used
to make excellent pickles.
A variety of shrub plants are grown as hedge trees, which
include Persia tree or umbrella tree or ‘Poovarasu,’ ‘Udi’ (Odina pinnata,)
Karinnotta (Karingatta,) ‘Mullu-murikku’ (Erythrina indica, used
as prop for pepper wine but worthless as timber,) ‘Veliparuthi’ (Cynanchum extensaum,) a few varieties of ‘Chembaruthi’ (Hibiscus rosasinesis) and ‘Adaparuthi.’ I have noticed bulges on
certain leaves of the ‘Adaparuthi’ tree. Jacob, my younger brother, and I used to break the ripe bulges on such leaves to liberate
mosquitoes captive therein. These mosquitoes preferred juices from leaves to
animal blood. A variety of rubber is also seen, the leaves of which the cattle
and sheep loved to eat but that culminated in stomach upset or death for them. ‘Paruthi-Panji’ is a variety of cotton plant, its large fruit breaks when it ripens
and that contains seed and cotton which is used for filling beds and pillows
after removing its seeds. I used to pluck and eat dark red or purple coloured
tiny nice juicy plums of the Mulberry. Its leaves are the favourite food of the
silk-worms. ‘Choonda-palm’ and ‘Arani’ tree are both wild growth on the
hedges; the birds especially the Koel, Cuckoo and Green Myna loves to eat both
the fruits. ‘Seemakonna’ is a variety
of hedge tree introduced by the agricultural department of the State of Kerala.
Its branches and leaves are good green manure. Its bunch of flowers too is
attractive. There are a lot of varieties of shrub garden plants as well.
The Malayali Brahmins and Nair
Madambis of this Island allowed growing peculiar varieties of trees
undisturbed by man in ‘Sarpa-Kavu,’ Sacred Serpent Groves. Big trees like
- ‘Pala,’ Milk plant, ‘Poovarasu’ (Persia tree or umbrella
tree,) ‘Cher,’ ‘Elanji,’ Strycknine tree or (Kanjiram,) Jamun Tree (Njaval,) Natural Mango tree, ‘Ponga, ‘Punna’, ‘Cheru-punna,’ ‘Anjili’
or ‘Ayini,’ ‘Arani’ (Premna spin; shrub trees like ‘Nanthiyarvattom’, ‘Asoka-chethi, ‘Thechi’
varieties and a lot of herbs and a variety of grasses. Many herbal plants were
seen on the deltas. I have observed the “Touch me not,” Mimosa, a herbal
medicinal plant. When they are touched, the leaves of the plant would suddenly
fold up and droop. The varied climbers are another group of plants available
here.
The Islanders, generally, were keen on maintaining
gardens. Both flowering and foliage plants including exotic varieties were
grown. They made flower offering to temples and churches.
A lot of grass varieties having numerous fibrous roots,
hollow stem and long narrow leaves, both terrestrial and aquatic, are noticed
in these Islands. It includes cereals, reeds and bamboos. ‘Bali-Karuka’, a grass, is used by the ‘Pujaries’, priests, for Hindu rituals. Some of the grass like ‘Muthanga’ with its bulb, Cyperus rotundus and ‘Karuka,’ Agrostis linearis, are medicinal. Cattles eat all varieties of grasses.
The three seasons for paddy cultivation were ‘Virippu’ or autumn crop (April-May to September-October,) ‘Mundakan’ or winter crop and ‘Puncha’ or summer crop (December-January to March-April.) Pokkali paddy variety for ‘Virippu’ and ‘Kuruka’ paddy for ‘Mundakan’
was sown together in the shallow paddy fields. Pokali’ paddy for ‘Virippu’ alone
is sown in the single crop ‘Kari Nilam,’ little deep wet lands; after harvest
these deep wet lands were used for prawn farming as well. ‘Puncha,’ the dry crop,
cultivation, was not done in our village due to lack of irrigation facilities.
In
olden days, the agricultural products available then in Kerala were, Coconut,
Arecanut, Rice, Coffee, Spices (Pepper, Cardamom, Shrivalled Ginger, Turmeric,
Frankincense (an aromatic gum resin used for burning as incence), Myrrh (a gum
resin from several plants of the genus Commiphora used in perfumery, incense),
Koriander, Cinamon, Clove, Nutmug and its calyx) and these attracted foreigners
and ships anchored at Muziris (former name of Kodungallur) for trade and
business.
The wildlife of
mangrove region is quite diverse and interesting. I used to marvel
the monsoon. The croaking of frogs, the chirping of
birds and mooing of cows herald the arrival of the South-west monsoon. A few
days after these signals the torrential rains would begin with bright flashes
of lightning and accompanied by heavy thunder. The ponds and canals in this
region were scientifically excavated to preserve rain water for use during the
summer. Fish like Climbing Perchet (Karoop) and Striped Snake Head (Varal) were in plenty. They swam out of
the unclean canals and ponds and moved towards the low gurgling streams looking
for fresh water sources. People used to wait at the ‘Kazhuva,’ which were small
breaches on the bunds, with a ball net to catch these fish. Jacob, my brother
and I used to join them. Sometimes when the ‘Karoop’
fish moved through our courtyard we could easily pick them up. I noticed that
these fish could stay out of water for a long time. The north-east
monsoon commences in October, and continues up to the middle of November. The flashes of lightning and thunder experienced during the
months of October–November definitely need mention as it helps in the lush and
speedy growth of the plants. The deciduous trees start shedding their leaves
around the same period and it transform the ground, especially beneath the
orchards into a bright orange or golden-yellow hue. We also experience chilly
nights from December to February. From March to May the heat is at its peak. We
experience a sweltering summer. It is also the flowering season when we find
colouring all around as the flowering trees and plants are in full bloom. A few
heavy showers in the midst of summer bring us intense relief. It cools the
Island and the landscape turns lush green with its large variety of flora, big
trees, shrubs and herbs that spring up with the first monsoon rains. It makes
the Island so lush green and beautiful that one cannot deny that it is truly
“God’s Own Island.”
I have observed that there were lots of ‘Thodu,’ canals to drain out the excess
water from the dry land as well as from the paddy fields during rainy season.
In these canals I have seen small ‘Poonjan’,
(tiny fish with shiny spot on its head), to big Pearl spot or Karimeen and its
fish-fingers in large number. I noted lots of ‘Kazhuva’, small passages for water on the tiny bunds within a
large paddy field, which are minor areas of brisk activity. I have observed
lots of ‘Poonjan’ and also sparkling
and glittering small predator fish like ‘Pallathi’
moving from one side of the field to the other and vice versa feeding on
smaller organisms. ‘Njounicca’ (Apple snail) and
Involute shells are also seen around the ‘Kazhuva’.
A variety of fish are found in fresh water ponds, canals and paddy fields.
There are a number of varieties of amphibians (especially frogs.) I used to
spend a lot of time near ponds and canals to observe their metamorphosis. I had
occasion to watch the tortoise and small fresh water turtles that lay eggs
beneath the heap of leaves or the cut vegetation or beneath the fencing.
I have observed reptiles like lizards which lay their
eggs in crevices of tree trunks and grooves of arboreal buildings. Tuatara laid eggs in the loose sand; its
elliptical shaped flexible eggs would bounce back when thrown. The Rat Snake or ‘Chera’ and
Water-snake or ‘Neerkoli’ were the common varieties of snakes seen. I have noted
that big snakes and tortoises take shelter in the space beneath huge trees. I
understand that the red earth filling for the railway line and national
highway-47 has brought in Vipers, a poisonous snake, to the Islands. These
deliver ten to sixteen young ones at a time. The big Python (Python reticulates,) occasionally,
arrives during the monsoon floods. The backwaters were infested with
crocodiles, Crocodilus porosus, which were a menace to the Islanders and
hence totally eradicated during the colonial period. At times, I have noticed
flying Tuatara (Para-Onth) and flying
frogs (Para-Thavala) on trees. The
webbed legs help them to make long leaps from one tree to another.
Insects like dragonflies, butterflies and moths are
pretty things, I marveled at. They help the pollination of flowers. Different
species of spiders are seen in the house, tree trunks and also atop the coconut
tree. It was attention-grabbing to watch certain big spiders which made wide
web-nets and deftly entangled small insects, and even butterflies. Then they
injected poison and paralysed them before they devoured them. I was astounded
to know that the female spider devours the male counterpart after copulation.
Some of the big spiders laid numerous eggs which were enveloped with its web
and carried beneath its body. When the eggs are hatched the spider leaves the
tiny ones in a safe place like a nearby building. Did the spiders teach the
fishermen the art of fishing? There are innumerable varieties of tiny insects
that I used to observe to find their contribution to the Mother Nature.
Birds also have tremendous economic
and ecological value in maintaining balance of nature by eating up the pests,
insects and vermins that cause damage to plants and crops. The birds of prey
and the snakes control rodent population that devours agricultural crops.
Beside animal communities, insects play a predominant role in maintaining the
ecosystem. Therefore, biota is an essential part of environment.
I noticed that the mangrove regions are favoured by a
variety of birds, both migratory and resident; and they hover around these
Islands. The varied birds devour lots of different type of insects harmful to
farmers. They help in the distribution of seeds of a wide range of fruits of
big trees, shrubs and herbal plants and grains of diverse grasses. The seeds
and the grains obtain moisture and the warmth, when they pass through the
digestive system of these birds. That provides a conducive atmosphere for the
seeds and grains to germinate. The
Jungle Babbler (Karikilanchi) brings in elephant grass especially if they come from
the nearby forest areas like Thattekad Bird Sanctuary. I have noticed that if a
property is left untouched and uncultivated for forty years then it would
naturally become a forested land and if this happens in a delta, it becomes a
mangrove. For example, in 1970, the State of Kerala acquired some
well-maintained and cultivated paddy fields and lush green coconut gardens on
drained lands at Panangad. These lands originally belonged to us and later
bestowed to Vathapilly family and Syrian Church at Kumbalam and a few others.
This was for the purpose of setting up the Fisheries College at Panangad now a
university, Kerala University of Fisheries and Ocean Studies (KUFOS.) Now after
forty years, that fallow and undisturbed area situated on the western side of
the bustling NH-47 bypass at Madavana, looks like a virgin forest, a mangrove
region. The true and devoted farmers in the delta region of the State of Kerala
had been forced to leave arable wet and drained lands fallow due to various
reasons like a) the indiscriminate severance of land by operation of law, the
Kerala Land Reforms Act, 1969, which sowed the seeds of anarchy; b) the
indiscriminate land acquisition for the setting up of the railway-line and
NH-47 severed and scattered the lands causing water logging and bits of land
made impracticable to cultivate it. (The acquisition was made without any foresight)
c) the failure on the part of the governments to provide reasonable price for
the agricultural produce; d) the spiraling costs of manure and prohibitive
labour charges, (the present rate is
seven hundred rupees per day for a tiller and rupees fifty per tree for
a freelance climber) and scarcity of labourers like climbers and tillers) and
the restrictions made by the Kerala Land
Utility Act and the Kerala Land Utility order 1967 prohibiting conversion of
wet lands for cash crops. Such undisturbed fallow lands are gradually turning
into virgin forests or mangroves. When the government tries to unsettle settled
positions of law, they are in reality opening a Pandora’s-box. Beyond his
limitations, man tries to create a new order in nature and society, thinking
that he is the master. He never realizes the fact that the Acts and Rules he is
making is contradictory to the Rules of Mother Nature
The varied
domestic birds are the fowls, ducks Mallard and Swan or ‘Vatha.’ Some of the Islanders care for love birds too.
The planktonic and benthic animal communities also play a
very important role in the mangrove ecosystem. There are different species of
small and big fish like the mud skippers, carangids, clupeids, serranids,
mullets, hilsa, seabars and milkfish are available in the Vembanad Backwaters.
Water Mussels are also seen in the shallow waters of the Vembanad ‘Kayal.’ The coastal shores are infested
with crustaceans like single pincer fiddler crabs or Uca vocans, and a small red crab that feed on smaller organisms and
waste that is cast ashore during the high tide. I have marveled the big Red Mud
Crabs, Pearl Spot or ‘Karimeen’ and
Big River Prawns or ‘Konch’ that take
shelter among the aerial roots of ‘Kandal’
trees or in the granite bunds. There are innumerable varieties of animals in
our Islands and I have dealt with some of my interactions and some of the
rarest of rare moments with them.
I have noted a lot of crustaceans, gastropods, and
insects beneath the earth. Small and big crabs live in burrows or among granite
bunds. ‘Ochu,’ a snail, a slow moving
gastropod mollusc with a spiral shell and a rasping tongue that enables them to
feed on dead flora (fossils.) When there is a tremor or flood they would appear
on the surface and start devouring trees and other vegetation. Another type of
snail is found in brackish water bodies which burrow into wooden stakes erected
in brine, floating canoes and boats and spoil them. Earth worms are fragile
beings that keep burrowing and trying to convert the decomposed flora and
animal droppings into humus or organic soil fit for consumption by plants.
Varied insects like beetles lay their eggs beneath the earth, decayed wood.
Microbial organisms like yeast, bacteria and fungi play a very important and
dominant role in the decomposition of mangrove foliage, regeneration of
nutrients and mineralization.
Rodents like
‘Chundeli’ (Small Mouse with tapering head), Rat, ‘Perichazhy’ or ‘Panniyeli’, (a big brown rat), and Squirrel;
Mongoose, ‘Keeri.’ It is an arch
enemy of snakes. I have spotted them fight with snakes and kill snakes. ‘Naricheer’ (Small Bats) and Vampire
Bats are the other wild varieties of mammals I had observed in these islands.
The domesticated mammals include dogs, cats, rabbits, cattle, sheep, pigs and elephants.
The picturesque sights of sheep and cattle grazing on the meadows and pastures;
their interactions with the birds are worth watching at a distance.
Our
tradition of respecting all forms of life has also contributed to a greater
extent to the preservation of plant and animal species over the centuries.
The existence of one species may depend on
the wellbeing of another, such as the relationship of paddy crop to fresh water
fish like Climbing Perch (Karoop,)
Striped Snake Head (Varal,) Spotted Etroplus
(Pallathi,) and Apple Snail (Njounica,) and Involute shells found in paddy fields, canals and
ponds nearby. These fish and others eat waste of paddy crop including grains,
and numerous insects, and other micro-organisms that arrived at the paddy field,
so the fallowing of paddy fields due to prohibitive labour charges, and due to
severance and scattering of wet land by indiscriminate land acquisition
for railway and national highway-47 has
endangered these fish and crustaceans, due to starvation and loss of habitat.
Similarly, when the hedge trees that supported the boundary fencing were cut
and removed and were substituted by brick walls, the birds do not find enough
twigs for nesting. Due to closure of coir industry at Kumbalam, the tiny birds like
Purple Sunbirds found it difficult to obtain coir fiber to weave their cute
baggy nests. So I made arrangements to get some coir fiber from Manappuram, in
Alleppy district. The number of mosquitoes multiplied and became a menace to
the humanity when the government encouraged export of frogs, a predator of
mosquitoes, to earn foreign exchange. But such relationships in ecosystem are
hardly realized by man who has been through the ages the principal agent of
change, trying to create a new order in which he is the master.
Pollution is causing threat to plant and animal species. Pollution by industrial
effluents of toxic waste, synthetic herbicides and pesticides in food and
nitrates are going into water.
The
main reason for extinction of certain species of plants and animals is
excessive commercialization. Plant
species are endangered as more lands are being cleared for factories, housing
colonies, railway and roads. Animal species
are getting extinct due to hunting and poaching. Commercial exploitation of forest lands has also reduced space
for animal habitats.
Bio-reserves are
necessary to protect and conserve the diverse flora and fauna in its natural
form found within the country.
The delta regions like the Islands of Kumbalam, which is
gifted with various species of flora and fauna, require an exhaustive
scientific documentation and investigation of all datae especially their use
for mankind.
