NATURE, FLORA AND FAUNA

As a child, I had several   occasions to eagerly listen to the narrations of history, geography, climate and biota about Kumbalam by Xavier Master  Chembalamsseril (1904-83,) who was a popular English and History teacher of Sacred Heart High School at Thevara. He was handsome and used to dress elegantly and always pleasant with a cute smile on his face. He was one of the first cousins of my ‘Appachan,’ my father, and was respected and revered. He used to tell me that nature is the manifestation of the love of the Creator. He told me, “Two centuries back, Kumbalam was one of the deltas popping out in the Vembanad ‘Kayal,’ Lake, and it was formed by sudden accretion of inundated soil and loam which eroded from the Sahyadri Mountains and hills created by heavy floods through the Rivers of Achenkovil, Pampa, Manimala, Meenachil, Muvattupuzha on the South and Periyar on the North. It was an area with a spectacular mangrove region, rich in varied flora and luxuriance.”

     The flora and fauna is the most striking feature of the land surface. The delta region like Kumbalam Village has a unique flora and fauna that vary widely from the Sahyadri Mountains, hills and valleys. The varied fauna and flora of a region depends on climatic factors like quantity of rainfall; tropical temperature along with humidity in the air, precipitation and the nature of the soil; variation in sunlight due to variations in latitude, height above sea level, season and 
duration of the day in any specific region; and soil conditions. I have made earnest efforts to portray my nostalgic memories and experiences with the ecosystem of my village.

All the flora and fauna are collectively known as Biota. All living things in an ecosystem are interdependent for their sustenance, growth and development. The existence of one species may depend on the health of another. The trees and the vegetation tiers in the matrix help produce life sustaining oxygen and prevent soil erosion, conserve water and purify air. Barks of trees, leaves, flowers, seeds, grains, tubers and roots of varied flora provided food and medicine for the fauna on earth. Every species of flora and fauna has a role to play in the ecosystem; hence conservation is essential. 

A lot of varieties of flora having aerial roots like - ‘Kandal’, (Rhizophora candel) and Red ‘Kandal’ of family Rhixoph were spotted on the shores of Vembanad ‘Kayal’. These dense ‘Kandal’ trees could break the wind and withstand the turbulence of the sea or the backwater. Its roots helped to prevent soil erosion. The other common trees seen on the shores were ‘Ungu or Puzhakanjiram,’ (Pongamia Pinnata;) ‘Kutti-kandal’ (Bruguiera cylindrica;) ‘Kozhi-mutta-nari’ (Premna serratifolia;) ‘Othalam’ (Cerbera manghas;) ‘Attupunna’ (Calophyllum inophyllum) and ‘Nenmeni-vaka’ (Canden atensis.) The culture of constructing granite embankments along the coastline necessitated the cutting and removal of these trees in large numbers.

          There were marshes in these islands. Sea Holly or ‘Muthala Mullu,’ (Acanthus illicifolius,) is the most common variety of plants that grow on the marshes. They have thorny trunks and leaves. But the marshes which were situated adjoining to Bapu Haji’s and Makkar Haji’s oil mill and other business places were used as pits for wetting the coconut husks locally known as ‘Chakirikuzhi’,.

          ‘Kaitha Kadu’, (Pandamus  odoratissimus,) was noted on the bunds or ‘Chiras,’ and ‘Choonda’ Palms, Wild Mango trees, Bamboo forests, a variety of other shrubs, herbs and grasses on drained flat land or ‘Tharas.’ There were different varieties of flora in the canals, ponds and paddy fields. The flowers of the Water-Lilly (Ambal,) and the Lotus (Cheru-Chittamara,) were eye catching.

There are a variety of algae or Payal, noticed on this Island. The ‘Urppai’ (Pontederia vaginalia,) spotted on tanks; the ‘Yenna-payal’ (Rotala verticellaris), the ‘Kalpayil’ (Lichen rotand) and the ‘Mullan-Payal’ Piaguicola or Urticularia are noted in fresh water ponds, canals and paddy-fields. The ‘Vazhukka-Payal’ Vallisneria spiralis, could be observed on open floors and walls. The ‘Katapa Payal’ or water hyacinth used to spread on stagnant water and its blue flowers at a vast stretch of water were alluring. The African Payal is an exotic species found in Kuttanad region which is a menace during rainy season to the fishermen casting fishing nets in Vembanad Backwaters and it is still continuing.

Ferns are another category of plants seen on moist walls. They are flowerless plants of the Order Filicopsida, having feathery fronds. Spores could be seen beneath the fronds which disbursed by winds. There are a few attractive varieties like Dryopteris filix-mas, which are planted in pots in our garden too.

I have noticed that the drained flat lands or ‘Thara,’ and lots of bunds ‘Varamba,’ within paddy fields, were extensively cultivated with major crops like Coconut and Areca, and these made the country-side lush green. The wood of a lot of other trees like ‘Poovarasu’ (Persia tree or umbrella tree,) Jack tree, Ayini, Ponga, Mahogani, Teak (a rare and strong timber) and other valuable trees, were used for the construction of buildings and furniture making. ‘Arani’ tree, (Premna spin,) trunk is used as fishing stakes. Lots of soft wood varieties like – Pine or ‘Marotti,’ Batham, ‘Elanji’, (Mimusops Elenji,) ‘Kanjiram’ (Strycknine tree,) ‘Njaval’ (Jamun Tree,) ‘Othalam,’ ‘Udi,’ ‘Odina pinnata’ could also be spotted. ‘Udi’ used to be planted near pagodas and churches to hoist the flags for their festivals. Now that is replaced by steel poles plaited with brass, silver or gold. A few varieties of natural mango trees are also seen. There were instances when people of this Island committed suicide by eating the kernel of ‘Othalam’ seed, which is poisonous. Fruit trees like Jack-fruit  tree, Mango tree, ‘Anjili’ or ‘Ayini,’ ‘Aerides  retusa,’ Bread-fruit tree, Gooseberry or ‘Nelli,’  Hogplum or ‘Ambazham’; shrub fruit trees like Guava, Rose Apple, CustardApple (Seethafal,) Spiny Custard or Mullu-Aatha, Mulberry, Pappaya, Lemon, Lime, Bumbloose and  other Citrus varieties;  Spices like Pepper (Black Gold,) Turmeric, Ginger, and Arrow root; Banana, Pineapple; Big and small Yam and vegetables are also commonly spotted here. It has also vast stretches of Ayurvedic medicinal herbs. Asparagus or ‘Satavari,’ Asparagus racemosus, is a climber, the tube roots of which are used to make excellent pickles.

A variety of shrub plants are grown as hedge trees, which include Persia tree or umbrella tree or ‘Poovarasu,’ ‘Udi’ (Odina pinnata,) Karinnotta (Karingatta,) ‘Mullu-murikku’ (Erythrina indica, used as prop for pepper wine but worthless as timber,) ‘Veliparuthi’ (Cynanchum extensaum,) a few varieties of ‘Chembaruthi’ (Hibiscus rosasinesis) and ‘Adaparuthi.’ I have noticed bulges on certain leaves of the ‘Adaparuthi’ tree. Jacob, my younger brother, and I used to break the ripe bulges on such leaves to liberate mosquitoes captive therein. These mosquitoes preferred juices from leaves to animal blood. A variety of rubber is also seen, the leaves of which the cattle and sheep loved to eat but that culminated in stomach upset or death for them. ‘Paruthi-Panji’ is a variety of cotton plant, its large fruit breaks when it ripens and that contains seed and cotton which is used for filling beds and pillows after removing its seeds. I used to pluck and eat dark red or purple coloured tiny nice juicy plums of the Mulberry. Its leaves are the favourite food of the silk-worms. ‘Choonda-palm’ and ‘Arani’ tree are both wild growth on the hedges; the birds especially the Koel, Cuckoo and Green Myna loves to eat both the fruits. ‘Seemakonna’ is a variety of hedge tree introduced by the agricultural department of the State of Kerala. Its branches and leaves are good green manure. Its bunch of flowers too is attractive. There are a lot of varieties of shrub garden plants as well.

The Malayali Brahmins and Nair Madambis of this Island allowed growing peculiar varieties of trees undisturbed by man in ‘Sarpa-Kavu,’ Sacred Serpent Groves. Big trees like - ‘Pala,’ Milk plant, ‘Poovarasu’ (Persia tree or umbrella tree,) ‘Cher,’ ‘Elanji,’  Strycknine tree or (Kanjiram,) Jamun Tree (Njaval,) Natural Mango tree, ‘Ponga, ‘Punna’, ‘Cheru-punna,’ ‘Anjili’ or ‘Ayini,’ ‘Arani’ (Premna spin; shrub trees like ‘Nanthiyarvattom’, ‘Asoka-chethi, ‘Thechi’ varieties and a lot of herbs and a variety of grasses. Many herbal plants were seen on the deltas. I have observed the “Touch me not,” Mimosa, a herbal medicinal plant. When they are touched, the leaves of the plant would suddenly fold up and droop. The varied climbers are another group of plants available here.

The Islanders, generally, were keen on maintaining gardens. Both flowering and foliage plants including exotic varieties were grown. They made flower offering to temples and churches.

A lot of grass varieties having numerous fibrous roots, hollow stem and long narrow leaves, both terrestrial and aquatic, are noticed in these Islands. It includes cereals, reeds and bamboos. ‘Bali-Karuka’, a grass, is used by the ‘Pujaries’, priests, for Hindu rituals. Some of the grass like ‘Muthanga’ with its bulb, Cyperus rotundus and ‘Karuka,’ Agrostis linearis, are medicinal.  Cattles eat all varieties of grasses.

The three seasons for paddy cultivation were ‘Virippu’ or autumn crop (April-May to September-October,) ‘Mundakan’ or winter crop and ‘Puncha’ or summer crop (December-January to March-April.) Pokkali paddy variety for ‘Virippu’ and ‘Kuruka’ paddy for ‘Mundakan’ was sown together in the shallow paddy fields. Pokali’ paddy for ‘Virippu’ alone is sown in the single crop ‘Kari Nilam,’ little deep wet lands; after harvest these deep wet lands were used for prawn farming as well. ‘Puncha,’ the dry crop, cultivation, was not done in our village due to lack of irrigation facilities.

In olden days, the agricultural products available then in Kerala were, Coconut, Arecanut, Rice, Coffee, Spices (Pepper, Cardamom, Shrivalled Ginger, Turmeric, Frankincense (an aromatic gum resin used for burning as incence), Myrrh (a gum resin from several plants of the genus Commiphora used in perfumery, incense), Koriander, Cinamon, Clove, Nutmug and its calyx) and these attracted foreigners and ships anchored at Muziris (former name of Kodungallur) for trade and business.

     The wildlife of mangrove region is quite diverse and interesting. I used to marvel the monsoon. The croaking of frogs, the chirping of birds and mooing of cows herald the arrival of the South-west monsoon. A few days after these signals the torrential rains would begin with bright flashes of lightning and accompanied by heavy thunder. The ponds and canals in this region were scientifically excavated to preserve rain water for use during the summer.  Fish like Climbing Perchet (Karoop) and Striped Snake Head (Varal) were in plenty. They swam out of the unclean canals and ponds and moved towards the low gurgling streams looking for fresh water sources. People used to wait at the ‘Kazhuva,’ which were small breaches on the bunds, with a ball net to catch these fish. Jacob, my brother and I used to join them. Sometimes when the ‘Karoop’ fish moved through our courtyard we could easily pick them up. I noticed that these fish could stay out of water for a long time. The north-east monsoon commences in October, and continues up to the middle of November. The flashes of lightning and thunder experienced during the months of October–November definitely need mention as it helps in the lush and speedy growth of the plants. The deciduous trees start shedding their leaves around the same period and it transform the ground, especially beneath the orchards into a bright orange or golden-yellow hue. We also experience chilly nights from December to February. From March to May the heat is at its peak. We experience a sweltering summer. It is also the flowering season when we find colouring all around as the flowering trees and plants are in full bloom. A few heavy showers in the midst of summer bring us intense relief. It cools the Island and the landscape turns lush green with its large variety of flora, big trees, shrubs and herbs that spring up with the first monsoon rains. It makes the Island so lush green and beautiful that one cannot deny that it is truly “God’s Own Island.”

I have observed that there were lots of ‘Thodu,’ canals to drain out the excess water from the dry land as well as from the paddy fields during rainy season. In these canals I have seen small ‘Poonjan’, (tiny fish with shiny spot on its head), to big Pearl spot or Karimeen and its fish-fingers in large number. I noted lots of ‘Kazhuva’, small passages for water on the tiny bunds within a large paddy field, which are minor areas of brisk activity. I have observed lots of ‘Poonjan’ and also sparkling and glittering small predator fish like ‘Pallathi’ moving from one side of the field to the other and vice versa feeding on smaller organisms.  ‘Njounicca’ (Apple snail) and Involute shells are also seen around the ‘Kazhuva’. A variety of fish are found in fresh water ponds, canals and paddy fields. There are a number of varieties of amphibians (especially frogs.) I used to spend a lot of time near ponds and canals to observe their metamorphosis. I had occasion to watch the tortoise and small fresh water turtles that lay eggs beneath the heap of leaves or the cut vegetation or beneath the fencing.

I have observed reptiles like lizards which lay their eggs in crevices of tree trunks and grooves of arboreal buildings.  Tuatara laid eggs in the loose sand; its elliptical shaped flexible eggs would bounce back when thrown. The Rat Snake or ‘Chera’ and Water-snake or ‘Neerkoli’ were the common varieties of snakes seen. I have noted that big snakes and tortoises take shelter in the space beneath huge trees. I understand that the red earth filling for the railway line and national highway-47 has brought in Vipers, a poisonous snake, to the Islands. These deliver ten to sixteen young ones at a time. The big Python (Python reticulates,) occasionally, arrives during the monsoon floods. The backwaters were infested with crocodiles, Crocodilus porosus, which were a menace to the Islanders and hence totally eradicated during the colonial period. At times, I have noticed flying Tuatara (Para-Onth) and flying frogs (Para-Thavala) on trees. The webbed legs help them to make long leaps from one tree to another.   

Insects like dragonflies, butterflies and moths are pretty things, I marveled at. They help the pollination of flowers. Different species of spiders are seen in the house, tree trunks and also atop the coconut tree. It was attention-grabbing to watch certain big spiders which made wide web-nets and deftly entangled small insects, and even butterflies. Then they injected poison and paralysed them before they devoured them. I was astounded to know that the female spider devours the male counterpart after copulation. Some of the big spiders laid numerous eggs which were enveloped with its web and carried beneath its body. When the eggs are hatched the spider leaves the tiny ones in a safe place like a nearby building. Did the spiders teach the fishermen the art of fishing? There are innumerable varieties of tiny insects that I used to observe to find their contribution to the Mother Nature.

          Birds also have tremendous economic and ecological value in maintaining balance of nature by eating up the pests, insects and vermins that cause damage to plants and crops. The birds of prey and the snakes control rodent population that devours agricultural crops. Beside animal communities, insects play a predominant role in maintaining the ecosystem. Therefore, biota is an essential part of environment.

I noticed that the mangrove regions are favoured by a variety of birds, both migratory and resident; and they hover around these Islands. The varied birds devour lots of different type of insects harmful to farmers. They help in the distribution of seeds of a wide range of fruits of big trees, shrubs and herbal plants and grains of diverse grasses. The seeds and the grains obtain moisture and the warmth, when they pass through the digestive system of these birds. That provides a conducive atmosphere for the seeds and grains to germinate. The Jungle Babbler (Karikilanchi) brings in elephant grass especially if they come from the nearby forest areas like Thattekad Bird Sanctuary. I have noticed that if a property is left untouched and uncultivated for forty years then it would naturally become a forested land and if this happens in a delta, it becomes a mangrove. For example, in 1970, the State of Kerala acquired some well-maintained and cultivated paddy fields and lush green coconut gardens on drained lands at Panangad. These lands originally belonged to us and later bestowed to Vathapilly family and Syrian Church at Kumbalam and a few others. This was for the purpose of setting up the Fisheries College at Panangad now a university, Kerala University of Fisheries and Ocean Studies (KUFOS.) Now after forty years, that fallow and undisturbed area situated on the western side of the bustling NH-47 bypass at Madavana, looks like a virgin forest, a mangrove region. The true and devoted farmers in the delta region of the State of Kerala had been forced to leave arable wet and drained lands fallow due to various reasons like a) the indiscriminate severance of land by operation of law, the Kerala Land Reforms Act, 1969, which sowed the seeds of anarchy; b) the indiscriminate land acquisition for the setting up of the railway-line and NH-47 severed and scattered the lands causing water logging and bits of land made impracticable to cultivate it. (The acquisition was made without any foresight) c) the failure on the part of the governments to provide reasonable price for the agricultural produce; d) the spiraling costs of manure and prohibitive labour charges, (the present rate is  seven hundred rupees per day for a tiller and rupees fifty per tree for a freelance climber) and scarcity of labourers like climbers and tillers) and the restrictions  made by the Kerala Land Utility Act and the Kerala Land Utility order 1967 prohibiting conversion of wet lands for cash crops. Such undisturbed fallow lands are gradually turning into virgin forests or mangroves. When the government tries to unsettle settled positions of law, they are in reality opening a Pandora’s-box. Beyond his limitations, man tries to create a new order in nature and society, thinking that he is the master. He never realizes the fact that the Acts and Rules he is making is contradictory to the Rules of Mother Nature

 The varied domestic birds are the fowls, ducks Mallard and Swan or ‘Vatha.’ Some of the Islanders care for love birds too.

The planktonic and benthic animal communities also play a very important role in the mangrove ecosystem. There are different species of small and big fish like the mud skippers, carangids, clupeids, serranids, mullets, hilsa, seabars and milkfish are available in the Vembanad Backwaters. Water Mussels are also seen in the shallow waters of the Vembanad ‘Kayal.’ The coastal shores are infested with crustaceans like single pincer fiddler crabs or Uca vocans, and a small red crab that feed on smaller organisms and waste that is cast ashore during the high tide. I have marveled the big Red Mud Crabs, Pearl Spot or ‘Karimeen’ and Big River Prawns or ‘Konch’ that take shelter among the aerial roots of ‘Kandal’ trees or in the granite bunds. There are innumerable varieties of animals in our Islands and I have dealt with some of my interactions and some of the rarest of rare moments with them.

I have noted a lot of crustaceans, gastropods, and insects beneath the earth. Small and big crabs live in burrows or among granite bunds. ‘Ochu,’ a snail, a slow moving gastropod mollusc with a spiral shell and a rasping tongue that enables them to feed on dead flora (fossils.) When there is a tremor or flood they would appear on the surface and start devouring trees and other vegetation. Another type of snail is found in brackish water bodies which burrow into wooden stakes erected in brine, floating canoes and boats and spoil them. Earth worms are fragile beings that keep burrowing and trying to convert the decomposed flora and animal droppings into humus or organic soil fit for consumption by plants. Varied insects like beetles lay their eggs beneath the earth, decayed wood. Microbial organisms like yeast, bacteria and fungi play a very important and dominant role in the decomposition of mangrove foliage, regeneration of nutrients and mineralization.

Rodents like ‘Chundeli’ (Small Mouse with tapering head), Rat, ‘Perichazhy’ or ‘Panniyeli’, (a big brown rat), and Squirrel; Mongoose, ‘Keeri.’ It is an arch enemy of snakes. I have spotted them fight with snakes and kill snakes. ‘Naricheer’ (Small Bats) and Vampire Bats are the other wild varieties of mammals I had observed in these islands. The domesticated mammals include dogs, cats, rabbits, cattle, sheep, pigs and elephants. The picturesque sights of sheep and cattle grazing on the meadows and pastures; their interactions with the birds are worth watching at a distance.

Our tradition of respecting all forms of life has also contributed to a greater extent to the preservation of plant and animal species over the centuries. 

     The existence of one species may depend on the wellbeing of another, such as the relationship of paddy crop to fresh water fish like Climbing Perch (Karoop,) Striped Snake Head (Varal,) Spotted Etroplus (Pallathi,) and  Apple Snail (Njounica,) and Involute shells found in paddy fields, canals and ponds nearby. These fish and others eat waste of paddy crop including grains, and numerous insects, and other micro-organisms that arrived at the paddy field, so the fallowing of paddy fields due to prohibitive labour charges, and due to severance and scattering of wet land by indiscriminate land acquisition for  railway and national highway-47 has endangered these fish and crustaceans, due to starvation and loss of habitat. Similarly, when the hedge trees that supported the boundary fencing were cut and removed and were substituted by brick walls, the birds do not find enough twigs for nesting. Due to closure of coir industry at Kumbalam, the tiny birds like Purple Sunbirds found it difficult to obtain coir fiber to weave their cute baggy nests. So I made arrangements to get some coir fiber from Manappuram, in Alleppy district. The number of mosquitoes multiplied and became a menace to the humanity when the government encouraged export of frogs, a predator of mosquitoes, to earn foreign exchange. But such relationships in ecosystem are hardly realized by man who has been through the ages the principal agent of change, trying to create a new order in which he is the master. 

Pollution is causing threat to plant and animal species. Pollution by industrial effluents of toxic waste, synthetic herbicides and pesticides in food and nitrates are going into water.

The main reason for extinction of certain species of plants and animals is excessive commercialization. Plant species are endangered as more lands are being cleared for factories, housing colonies, railway and roads. Animal species are getting extinct due to hunting and poaching. Commercial exploitation of forest lands has also reduced space for animal habitats. 

     Bio-reserves are necessary to protect and conserve the diverse flora and fauna in its natural form found within the country.

The delta regions like the Islands of Kumbalam, which is gifted with various species of flora and fauna, require an exhaustive scientific documentation and investigation of all datae especially their use for mankind.

Excerpts from

MEMOIRS

An autobiography

by

Joseph J. Thayamkeril

Lawyer, Kochi, Kerala, India.

josephjthayamkeril.blogspot.com