TODDY (‘KALLU’) VINEGAR AND
THE THOUGHT OF
PROHIBITION
I remember Paily, the old sacristan of St. Mary’s
church, a jolly person. He used to say that a bottle of ‘Elaya Kallu’, toddy which is absolutely fresh right from its
source, is brisk and fine. A couple of glasses of this elixir make a man merry
and a merry heart lives long! The natural palm wine, no doubt, is a
healthy drink. This is very refreshing and puts you in a creative mood. He who
drained bottles of ‘Mootha Kallu’,
fermented toddy, which was kept for some time, would take him to an
exhilarating height just like hard liquor. The toddy could be distilled into
arrack, a more intoxicating drink. If too much of fermented toddy or arrack is
consumed it makes you totally intoxicated.
Beware, if you have unlimited quantity of toddy or arrack one would get
addicted and intoxicated. Due to the ‘Delirium
tremens’ one might tend to babble and to stagger from side to
side, a
reason for wordy altercation or even a melee might ensue which may lead further to a serious
felony. For a labourer who toils hard all day, toddy definitely stimulates his
energy. The spurious toddy on the other hand might steal the consumer’s health
and in extreme cases his life as well.
I have seen the toddy tappers who venture out in the
morning and evening to perform their task of tapping and collecting toddy.
Their attire is unique. A short loin cloth is used to cover their privies as
they have to climb the coconut trees with ease. A wooden pad which provides a
sheath for their sharp ‘Chethu Kathi’,
tapping knife, is fastened over this cloth around the waist. A black coconut
shell, with an opening at the top, filled with mire too is carried with him on
the waist band. He holds on to a braided ‘Churakka’
pot (a large and oval shaped fruit’s cover used as a pot, which is braided
with coir rope) to collect the toddy from tree top. These tappers have a
different way of climbing up the coconut trees. They place their steps on
pieces of coconut husk firmly tied on to the tree trunk and climb up and down
as if he is climbing on a ladder. On reaching the top, he climbs on top of the
tree-crown with the support of a sturdy and strong palm leaf and settles down
comfortably to start his work. These tappers get a panoramic view of their neighbourhood
and the activities therein. It is interesting to watch the toddy extraction
procedure. The palm wine which had oozed the previous night into the pot atop
the tree is collected and brought down. He then cuts a little bit of the ripe
coconut bud end and ties the bud with a coir yarn, beat it from top to bottom
with a bone and rubs a little mire or mud at the cut end. It is believed to
produce more yields. Then he moves on to other trees he is tapping. If the
tapper is in a fine mood he might give a few bottles of toddy to those who ask
him for it in exchange for money. This entire process is repeated in the
evenings as well. “The watering of the palm trees during summer improves the
yield,” says Kunjappan Vazhavelil, a veteran tapper. True he says from his
practical experience.
Normally, the contractor of the toddy shop earmarks a
few high yielding coconut palms which are fifteen to forty years old to tap
toddy. The rent of the tree used to be hundred and fifty rupees per tree which
was paid by the licencee or contractor who auctioned the toddy shop. This
fetched the farmers a sizeable income.
Tapping was a livelihood for a lot of Ezhava men on the Island. I knew
Raman Vazhavelil, his son Kunjappan, Kandu Kunnunkal and my neighbor Kumaran
Kalappura and his son Babu were experienced tappers of this locality.
‘Appachan’,
occasionally bought a few bottles of fresh toddy to make vinegar. It was kept
for a few days after which it was strained and stored in large bottles. The
sediments and precipitates were cleaned every thirty days. After six months the
final product obtained was unadulterated concentrate vinegar. This was used in
for making various pickles and salads. Vinegar was also made by adding sugar to
coconut water and fermenting it in the same way. By boiling the toddy one can
obtain ‘Chakkara’ a medicinal jaggery
I knew Sanku Vazhavelil, Kelu Puzhangathara, and
Velayudhan Karikkanthara eked out their living by making vinegar. They used to
sell this to hoteliers and other customers in town. Gone are those days as now
this authentic brew is hard to find.
The thought of total prohibition of liquor is
insincere, immature and absurd. The State of Tamilnadu and Kerala tried it
once. Those governments found it difficult to rehabilitate the traditional
employees engaged in the trade. They too miserably failed to curb the trade in
spurious liquor and drugs that flowed from within and out of the state, which
is more injurious to health. Therefore, they were forced to withdraw the same.
I suggest an alternative method of imposing heavy penalty on those habitual
drunkards who misbehave in public places.
I wonder why the government is promoting and
monopolizing the trade in the coloured spurious arrack branded as foreign
liquor. Consumption of this is injurious to health. The great Chanakya, in
“Arthasastra,” an authority on statecraft, suggested revenue, by sale of liquor
or by deal in prostitution or by consecrating a deity atop a hill and giving
propaganda of miracles done to attract the crowd, only on the occurrence of a
rarest of rare event, where a government has no other source to raise funds to
manage their affairs. It is not advisable for a government to embark on such a
trade or business. It is against great ideals. At the same time it is difficult
to enforce total prohibition. I would suggest liberal licensing to coconut
growers to tap toddy, which would help the agriculturists to obtain a
reasonable income and the common man would get a healthy drink.
Excerpts from
MEMOIRS
An autobiography
by
Joseph J. Thayamkeril
Lawyer, Kochi, Kerala, India.
josephjthayamkeril@gmail.com
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