Saturday, 20 September 2014

MY IDYLLIC ‘OLI MANA’

I was fortunate to receive an unbroken chain of knowledge handed down from generation to generation. I learned that our ancestors were ‘Nambuthiris’, who were considered as high caste Brahmins. They were known by the family name “Ayyanat Thayamkeril.” In the Tamil language it means “Father’s inherited property with lineal male descendant.” In early days, Kumbalam “Ekachatram,” dominion or territory comprising four islands, having a total extent of over five thousand acres, was one of the sixty-four ‘gramams’, Brahmin settlements  in the Chera country. The eldest male member of our Mana (house) used to be the “Koyil-Adhikaari,” the representative of the king who presided over the assembly of the ‘Gramam’. His word was final and decisive. The chaos and confusions created during 3rd to 8th centuries, due to the invasions by the Cholas, the Pandavas, the western Chalukyas, the Pallavasthe Rashtrakutas and others, led to a total mobilization of the resources of the State under the leadership of the Kulasekharas. The Nambuthiri, Brahmins, who were at the apex of the social hierarchy, helped the rulers in mobilizing the resources of the community in the fight against aggression. The Oli Nambuthiri, my ancestor, donated all his gold, jewels and other assets for the cause. All the Nambuthiris of this Island gave up their traditional priestly occupation and scholarly pursuits. They equipped themselves with Kalari-payatu, a martial art and took up arms. The ‘Salais’ were ancient educational institutions where the Nambuthiri youth of the island were given instruction in Vedic studies. These salais too were converted into military camps during the period of the war. During the sixth century the Kulasekharas, in order to strengthen the administration, the Chera country was divided into ‘Desom’ and ‘Nadu,’ a decentralized set up. Thus the eldest ‘Nambuthiri’ of Ayyanat Thayamkeril became the hereditary ‘Desavazhi’, ruler of this minor principality namely Kumbalam ‘Desom’. I was familiarised with Oli Desavazhi Nambuthiris, my ancestors, were in the governing council of the King. The ‘Desavazhi’ and his family members used to reside in ‘Oli Mana, which meant - a respected house or the residence of ‘Thampuran’. This ‘Mana’, which has a history of about two thousand years, is situated on the North-western side of the Island. The Islanders used to call my grandfather “Oli Ousepachan” and my father as “Oli Joseph.” This prefix of ‘Oli’, a Sanskrit word, is equivalent to the English “Sir” used to show respect to a person of high standing in that particular area. All the members of the ‘Oli Mana’ are also addressed with the prefix. The landed property in which the ‘Mana’ situates is called the “Ayyanat Paramba”. Later during the British suzerainty over Kumbalam, the inmates of Ayyanat Thayamkeril along with some of their close ‘Nair Madambi’s were converted, against their will, into Christian faith. The autobiographer, Joseph J. Thayamkeril, 1952 model, was locally known as “Oli Ousepachan”. I was born in a feudal family back ground.
[It is significant to have a glimpse into the history of our ancestral community, the Aryans. All the ancient Zoroastrian scriptures speak of an earlier homeland from where our ancestors came.  This was the lost "Airyane Vaejahi" or seed land of the Aryans in the Artic Region. Gradually as the population increased, the Indo-Europeans or Aryans moved from this homeland, to the South i.e. Iran; then to the River Valleys of Danube, Dnieper, Don and Volga in the north-west region of upper India; and to the South-west to Greece and all the countries of Europe i.e. Russia, Greece, Italy, Germany, France, Scandinavia, England, Scotland and Ireland. Sanskrit, Latin, Avestan are all sister languages. The present day upper Indian, Persian and European languages are related; for example, the word “Baradar” in Persian, “Brata” in Sanskrit and “Brother” in English. Similarly the words like “Mother” and “Father” had close affinity. "Persia" is actually a late European term for the land of "Farsi" language i.e. Iran. Balagangadhar Tilak, a Vedic scholar and Indian freedom fighter, also said that the most ancient historical scripture was the Iranian Vendidad, which actually describes the ancient homeland of the Aryans.          The Aryan King Yima Kshaeta ruled over the homeland.   Indian Hinduism adopted him as the Lord of the underworld, under the name of Yama Raja. The ancient Aryans believed that the world was created by Ahura Mazda and his creation was perfect, without any evil. The scholars admit that the great civilizations of Mohenjo-Daro and Harappa in ancient India were built by the Aryans who migrated to India, when the Vedas were written. They flourished for thousands of years. They were forced to evacuate; may be due to some catastrophe of nature, or perhaps even due to the invasion by non-Aryan tribes. The Indus Aryans practiced agriculture, domesticated animals, used uniform weights and measures, made tools and weapons, and traded with other cities. Evidence of well-planned streets, a drainage system and water supply reveals their knowledge of urban planning, which included the world's first urban sanitation systems and the existence of a form of municipal government. Owing to natural calamities, or invasion by other non-Aryan tribes, the Aryans of Indus Valley civilization headed south and a group reached Muzuriz (Kodungallur) and my ancestors were known to be the earliest settlers on the Kumbalam Island.]
I was eager to know more about the powers and duties bestowed on a ‘Desavazhi’, ruler. Xavier Master told me that the powers of the ‘Desavazhi’ include (a) ‘Ambalappady’, the right to direct the ceremonies of a pagoda, temple and such places of worship. He had a title to an elevated seat. (b)  ‘Uraima’, that was the ownership of the temple; (c) ‘Desom’, a minor principality was his territory and (d) ‘Desadhipathiam’, a covetable power bestowed on the ruler. The ‘Desavazhi’, enjoyed a high degree of sovereignty. Kings were not strong enough to control local communities and the responsibility of maintaining law, order and dispensing justice was assumed by the local ‘Desavazhi’.  The decentralized power gave ‘Desavazhi’ the right to collect revenue and settle disputes as well based on the local customs and traditions by punishing the wrong doers. The ‘Desavazhi’ used to give adequate protection and security to his subjects. He maintained a very good rapport with his warriors of the land who were well versed in ‘Kalari Payattu’, a martial art. The ‘Desavazhi’ who is believed to have wisdom, knowledge, adequate money, power and influence ruled his ‘Desom’ well upholding the law with the help of the ‘Nair Madambis’ and other landlords. I have reliably learnt from elders that my ancestors took particular care in the welfare, happiness, prosperity and wellbeing of the people, and security and stability of his ‘Desom’ without any compromise. The ‘Desavazhi’ normally reported to the ‘Naduvazhi’ of that area. Since Kumbalam desom was situated on a strategically important location and because of its proximity and closeness to the seat of Chera Empire he used to report to the Chera King and later to the Raja of Cochin, his superior.

Our idyllic ‘Oli Mana’ is located at the North-western part of the Kumbalam Island facing the vastness of Vembanad ‘Kayal’, lake, a most favourable position, which was chosen as per the rules of ‘Thachusastra’, the ancient and indigenous architecture. It was surrounded, at a respectable distance, by the houses of close ‘Nair’ families.

Our house constructed with wooden walls on all sides had a magnificent attic with a gabled roof. It was very nature friendly so much so that the rooms in the house were warm during the monsoon and the winter and cool during the summer. This was due to the wooden materials used for its construction.  Structurally the roof frame was supported on the wooden pillars and sturdy wooden planks on walls erected on a plinth raised from the ground for protection against dampness and insects in the tropical climate. The basement of the building was constructed with cut and dressed laterite stones as building blocks which were put together with lime mortar. These laterite stones get stronger and durable with exposure at atmospheric air when it is plastered with lime mortar. (Laterite stones disintegrate when plastered with cement as it loses air contact.) Lime mortar was the classic binding material used in traditional buildings. Lime mortar can be enriched in strength and performance by admixtures of vegetable juices or the white of egg or the slimy substance found on the body of a fresh water fish called Snake Head (Varal) for plastering. The masonry work too had several attractive folds shapes and grooves to match the carpentry work made on the wooden walls. The intricate wood carvings made on pillars, beams, ceiling, rafters and supporting brackets was a masterpiece in carpentry. I used to always wonder how many carpenters and other casual labourers were employed to cut, plane and shape hundreds of ‘Anjili or Ayini’ and teak trees, a hard and durable timber, to build that wooden house. It had spacious rooms with verandah on all sides except on the kitchen side. We made full use of that verandah especially during the rainy days when it was transformed into our playground. The central room on the eastern side was used as a prayer room. Since we had paddy fields and cultivation, there was a large wooden granary inside with a ‘Nilavara’, a room beneath the granary. The side room on the north was used as living and dining room. Rooms on the south and west were used as bed rooms. The store room was on the lean-to portion of the building on the north.

The frontage of the main building was facing the East. The warm rays of the rising sun streamed through the doors on the eastern side. They reached every nook and corner of the living rooms and the bed rooms. There was a 40 X 20 feet ‘Pumukham’, a bower.  Traditionally it has a slope roof with pillars supporting roof. Sides were open. ‘Appachan’, the head of the family, used to sit here in a reclining chair. This chair had long rails on either side where he used to keep his legs raised for a comfortable afternoon rest and enjoyed the cool breeze and solitude here. The ‘Pumukham’, bower, was attached to a verandah, which went around the house except for the kitchen side on the north and was covered by the lean-to supported by wooden pillars and there were dwarf walls plastered in cement on the eastern and southern sides. The carving made on the attic and support beams made it beautiful. I have noted that the leaves of ‘Karingatta’, (Karinnotta tree), Samadera indica, was spread on the attic, to curb menace of white ants, before pasting mire or swamp at a height of two inches. This was done to cool the rooms beneath. This area is also used for spreading and drying paddy harvested during the monsoon.

Those days, the kitchen was a separate building at the northern end of the house. This had a work area with a verandah on all sides except on the east where the fire place was situated. The kitchen was connected to the main building through an open corridor. 

We had beautiful antique chairs, cabinet, dining table, office table, a round table and chairs portraying typical Portuguese workmanship; big and small bronze utensils, copper utensils, Chinese crockery and silver cutlery, which are still kept intact. I recall the old parish priests who used to have their meals only with silver spoons, fork and knife; so whenever a priest visited any of our neighbouring houses, they would borrow our Portuguese made round table and chairs, Chinese plates and silver cutlery to honour the parish priest.
There is a pond on the North-east for the convenience of the kitchen and another pond, for bathing and washing on the South-west, where lotus or Ambal used to be planted. The water bodies are maintained to synthesize energy flow inside. Blue and white ‘Kadambu’ (Phyllanthus maderasp) and ‘Muringa’ (Drum Stick tree, (Muringa oleifera), were planted on the sides of the ponds to cleanse impurities and to drain out poisonous matter from the pond.
At the center of the eastern courtyard is the ‘Tulasithara’, a small, fancy, masonry structure. in which a Sacred Basil, ‘Tulasi’, plant (Ocimum tenuiflorum) is reared. It is a sacred aromatic plant in Hindu belief. The offering of its leaves is mandatory in ritualistic worship of God Vishnu (Krishnan.) The plant has medicinal value. A herbal tea or coffee, commonly used in Ayurveda to heal cold, fever, flu, sore throat, cough, and help to remove phlegm from the bronchial tube, sore eyes and sharpen memory. (Our lady ancestors used to kindle light on the ‘Tulasithara’ during sunset and chanted Rama Rama Rama Rama Rama… Pahimam, a ‘Bhajan’, prayer.)

The cattle shed was located on the South-east. There was a shed on the North-west to store the harvested coconuts. There was another shed on the northern side to keep the agricultural implements.  Firewood was also stored in this same shed. The Poultry shed was further north wherein we had fowls and ducks beneath the poultry shed. It is significant to note that the surface of the earth, water, air, fire, space / time and many other factors influence the life of the inmates of every household.  Hence these were placed as per the rules of ‘Thachusastra.’

There was a guest house on the shore to entertain those persons who were not otherwise permitted into the Mana. After our conversion into Christianity, that house was rented out and later, a ‘Kudikidappukaran’, tenant, was accommodated therein. When Kerala Land reforms Act, 1969 came into force; he was shifted to one side of that property. 

The ‘Padippura’ was a structure containing a door forming part of the compound wall for the Mana with a tiled roof on top. It was the formal entry into the compound of the Mana. The ‘Padippura’ was demolished long back when an eight to ten feet wide sandy P.W.D. road was formed.

The butterflies, birds, and other beings too appreciated the nature friendly house, courtyard and compound by their frequent visits.


From early centuries the inhabitants of Kumbalam cherished to keep their dwelling places in beautiful surroundings. Landscaping the immediate living environment was a matter of interest in. The house was traditionally constructed as per ‘Thachusastra’ in the midst of gardens. Their picturesque beauty was recorded as early as the 10th century A.D. by the Arab traveler and historian Ibn Battutta, in his itinerary in “Coastal Malabar.” The aesthetic peculiarities of ‘Nambuthri’ houses were described by him, “These prominent citizens lived in comfortable houses, built of laterite stones, wood and thatches. Roofing tiles were used only in temples and palaces. The woodlands helped to beat the heat and humidity. The affluent maintained pools also to beat the heat. He has also mentioned about the aesthetic tastes and cleanliness of these elite citizens.” 

Excerpts from

MEMOIRS

An autobiography
by
Joseph J. Thayamkeril
Lawyer, Kochi, Kerala, India.
josephjthayamkeril.blogspot.com
josephjthayamkeril@google.com
josephjthayamkeril@gmail.com


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